The story about needles

Sewing machine needles are an essential tool for quilting, and knowing the different parts of a needle can help you choose the right one and use it effectively. Let’s break down the anatomy and importance of each part of a needle.

 

Anatomy of a Sewing Machine Needle

1. Shank: The upper part of the needle that is inserted into the sewing machine. Domestic machines use a flat shank, ensuring the needle is correctly positioned with the eye at 12 o'clock. This alignment is crucial to prevent thread shredding.
2. Shaft: The long, thin part of the needle below the shank.
3. Scarf: A small indentation on the back of the needle, just below the shank. The scarf allows the bobbin thread to intersect smoothly with the upper thread, facilitating the stitch formation.
4. Groove: Located above the eye of the needle, the groove helps guide the thread through the fabric. If the thread does not fit into the groove properly, it can cause the thread to fray or break.
5. Eye: The hole through which the thread passes.
6. Point: The sharp end of the needle that pierces the fabric.

Importance of the Groove

The groove in the needle plays a critical role in protecting the thread as it passes through the fabric. If the thread is too thick or too thin for the groove, it can lead to various issues such as thread stripping, breaking, missed stitches, and uneven tension. Ensuring that the thread fits well into the groove is essential for smooth sewing.

Needle Numbering System

Needles are numbered based on their diameter. The metric size is the diameter of the needle blade times 100. For example, a 1mm needle is a size 100. The Singer system uses a different numbering, where a 90 (0.9mm) needle is labeled as 14.

Choosing the Right Needle Size

60/8 and 70/10: For very fine threads like 100wt or 60wt.	80/12: Commonly used for fine threads like 50wt, suitable for piecing.	90/14: For medium threads around 40wt.	100/16: For heavier threads like 30wt.

Needle Types for Different Fabrics

• Ball Point Needles: Less sharp than Universal needles, designed to separate fibers in knit fabrics without damaging them.
• Sharp Needles: Ideal for delicate fabrics like silk.
• Universal Needles: Versatile, strong needles suitable for piecing and quilting.
• Quilting Needles: Designed with a stronger shaft to reduce deflection and maintain stitch quality while maneuvering a quilt.

Preventing Needle Breakage

Needles can break for several reasons, including:

• Using a needle that is too fine for the fabric.
• Stitching over pins or zippers.
• Incorrect needle system for the machine model.
• Upper tension is too tight.
• Improperly fitted bobbin case or bobbin.
• Loose presser foot.
• Incorrectly set or loose needle.
• Fabric thickness not matching the needle in use.
• Pulling fabric without raising the presser foot after sewing.

Using a new needle for each quilt and replacing it after extensive use can help maintain your machine’s performance and prevent damage.

Understanding the different parts of a needle and their functions, as well as choosing the right needle for your thread and fabric, can significantly improve your quilting experience. Happy quilting!